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IL GELSO

'DUEMILAVINI' 2008
Located in the 'Parco di Veio' nature and archaeological park, just outside Rome, between Olgiata and Formello, this young winemaking enterprise is truly deserves crediting as noteworthy: immersed in florid flora amid unspoilt nature, the grape crop is solely treated with natural and organic products. Now in its third cru, the Merlot and Cabernet based Il Gelso, in its 2006 version, is truly deserves merit.
IL GELSO 2006
Ruby red with purple undertones, appreciable body. Intense scent, reminiscent of berries, black pepper, juniper and laurel. Harmonious and round, pleasant structure, rich nose and taste come with good length. Tannins are properly developed and structured. Spends 6 months in steel and 10 months ageing in bottles. Truly outstanding if combined with rosemary fillet steak. (ratings: 1 bottiglia - 4 grappoli)

'DUEMILAVINI' 2009
Hearty and slightly irrational well desribes the azienda's wines, nurtured by the able hands of Graziana Grassini, a woman enologist who combines sound technique with ambitious explorations into uncharted terriotry. The five-year-old cantina only bottles wines from its own harvest. Having recently entered production, the vinyeyard features predominantly Merlot and Cabernet grapes, alongisde smaller Chardonnay allotments. The organic spirit underpinning the cantina's philosophy totally foregoes the soil's chemical treatent. The azienda's vineyards in Scansano, Tuscan Maremma, are entering production in 2009, holding great promise for six lines of new whites and reds.
IL GELSO 2007
The year's 20,000-bottle low yield deliver impressive weight, striking even on first sight, with glorious ruby-purple tints. Peony, sour cherry, red berries evolve towards more masculine mace, black pepper and laurel. Taste is astringent but carries a uniquely tartaric freshness that provides adequate balance to the juicy-sweet overtones which, given the generous alochol content, would otherwise clash somewhat. The finish is uncompromising and strong, delivering a proud display of shameless fruity acidity. Almost steely. Well suited to tortelli di zucca. (ratings: 1 bottiglia - 4 grappoli)

'ANNUARIO DEI MIGLIORI VINI ITALIANI' 2008 by Luca Maroni
IL GELSO 2006
Impressions: this wine delivers a splendidly clean scent. Its fruity nose is pure silk. Profoundly inspired in its choice of an all-present wild berry key note. Pristine intensity grant the its black cherry whiffs a potency and vigour almost on par with that of its raspberry. Cleanly processed and assembled, its stark residual oxidation conveys exceptional brightness. Other qualities: thick-bodied and plump, powering nose and taste deliveries. Bud softness, coupled wit crisp acidity, clear profiling of nose notes, densily tanninic though never bitter in the harmonics. Weighty, harmonious and embellished by a splendid aroma, with high-pitched fruity notes; delivery is both soft and deep. A truly great wine. (Points total, 89: Consistency 31 - Balance 29 - Integrity 29)

'ANNUARIO DEI MIGLIORI VINI ITALIANI 2009' by Luca Maroni
IL GELSO 2007
Impressions: a wine that delivers in its final with silky endnotes. Fleshy, ripe, juicy, fabulous. Pure, unadullterated fruitniness, with spicy - anything but ostentatious - undertones. Gentle and caressing, a well-rounded hint of berries characterise its ripe nose. Nothing gets in the way of red berry and fleshy pulp aroma. Alcohol connects with crystal potency, announced by early, dense whiffs of pure gliceryn. Truly spirited, alive and in the making. Prune core, forest flower deliveries of dark cherry and violet, balanced by a the brilliance of its aroma; palate offers a sound soft/acidic/tannic balance full-mouthed. (Points total, 90: Consistency 31 - Balance 31 - Integrity 28)

Final comments
Rome's very own grand cru. The Gelso 2007 by Gelso della Valchetta is an outstanding red. Dense, soft, spontaneous, expressive to a top grade. Its silkyness conceals a weight which is delivered and relinquished in optimal fashion. Enjoyably luxuriant, the aroma is crisp and turgid, vivacious with purple overtones. Good.